Any dog can learn to “choose” to heel at your side, on or off leash. Off leash is the mindset and goal you should focus on. The below method is the same type of training done for obedience competition. Even though you’ll keep the leash on your dog while you walk down the street, the goal is off leash control, using mostly positive motivation methods.
You’ll need to get a little boot camp mindset going for a few weeks. The dog needs his motivators withheld and given ONLY for choosing the “heel” position. Use meals, treats, toys, bones, attention, freedom as your motivators. This is the the “Nothing In Life Is Free / NILIF” method. We use this method with all our Boot Camp client dogs who live with us. It takes 1-3 weeks to accomplish a very nice full attention on the handler, off leash, motivated “Heel”.
Nothing in Life is Free = NILIF Article on what it is and how to do it
Make all meal times a formal lesson. For a Boot Camp NILIF method to work, your dog must work for ALL food. If he is not interested in participating, he does not get any free food.
Yes, you may give handfuls at a time.
Yes you can Bonus the end of the session with the remaining food in the bowl.
No, you can not feed your dog his meal if he’s not attempting to participate in your new heel game.
No, he can not be free fed.
First Step:
In your kitchen, set the dog food bowl on the counter. Grab handfuls of food. Lure the dog into the “heel” position & feed. This can be your left or right side, but it should always be the same side. Tradition and competition “Heel” is at the handler’s left side.
You may say “Heel” each time the dog is next to your leg, while you feed him. After each handful of food, release the dog “Free”.
Move a few feet away to another location, repeat these above steps. I’m a big fan of my hand patting my hip or side of my leg to indicate “Heel” with a second cue, in addition to the word “Heel”.
Second step:
Lure the dog into the heel position.
Then, Lure the dog into a Sit. Next, encourage the dog to move forward next to you with the food, then walk forward, 1-3 steps. Feed the dog after taking the steps.
Then lure the dog into another Sit.
Release dog with “Free”.
Repeat this method many sessions.
Third Step:
Add more distance of walking around your house. Ask the dog to join you in “Heel”. He should go to your side & choose to sit. Then say “Heel” again as you move forward together. After walking, he should automatically sit when you stop.
Yes, you may continue to lure him in all of this, but the goal is to patten the behavior that with ONE time of indicating “Heel” he runs to your side, sits looking at you, moves forward with you while looking at you, stops & sits when you stop & looks at you.
Reduce the reward to only feeding once he’s competed each round of finding his “heel”, walking beside you, choosing to sit when you stop. Then Reward at the end of each sit. You may now link together multiple rounds of “Heel”, “Sit”, “Heel”, “Sit” before a release of “Free”.
Fourth Step:
Ask your dog to “Heel” around the house/yard as his only obedience command, and give other real life rewards. This is where the “NILIF” method comes in to play. Have him go to “Heel” before tossing a toy. “Heel” before letting him in/out the door. “Heel” before a snuggle session.
Fifth Step:
Add distractions & practice outside. For the first few outside sessions, I like to use long rope in the front yard/driveway. The dog drags the rope. I practice my “Heel” routine with his meals just like we did in the house for days/weeks prior. At this point I start “U” turning frequently. We heel forward 5-20 feet. I “U” turn, away from the side the dog is on & head back where I started. This means, my dog is on my left side. I then turn in place to my right (clockwise), 180 degrees, and make what looks like a “U” turn.
I do dozens of “U” turns per session. I stop & expect the automatic sit frequently as well. This step can be difficult and set a dog back in his abilities. At this point the “Heel” might really go down hill. Keep practicing in short sessions outside for 1-3 minutes, then go back inside. Try to end on a positive note each time!
Sixth Step:
Time for a real walk.
Put your dog on his leash. Yes you may use his training collar for this stage. Keep the leash very loose if your dog is near you. He should not feel any tug from the leash when he is near you in “Heel”.
Start your walk out with 1-3 minutes of U turns in the front of the house. When the dog is relaxed and obedient, walk off your property, down the street. Every 10-30 feet, either stop and have him sit next to you for food, or, take a “U” turn. He should be fed /rewarded every 30 seconds to 2 minutes.
Take breaks every 2-4 minutes. On the “Free” breaks allow him to sniff, potty, explore where you choose to stand. Do not walk. Pick a spot, stand and allow him some free time to be a dog. The break can be 1-3 minutes.
Resume the “Heel” routine when you are ready to walk again. IF the dog is at a nice chill pace next to you, feel free to continue walking straight forward. IF he is in a race horse rush to “get somewhere”, you should resume “U” turns and stops with a Sit.
Most dogs learn that walks are a big race to “get somewhere”. Part of getting a dog to “Heel” is for you to change your mindset of the walk. A walk should be loose leash, under control and a partnership of working together.
Happy Training!
author, Alicia of Safari Dogs Ranch
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Video of Alicia’s good friend dog trainer & show handler, Breyers Lane, demonstration of a dog who knows his “Heel Position”.
More “Heel Position” with Breyers Lane